A Personal Guide to the Ports of the Channel
Nicholas Hill
Alderney
Alderney is often used as a jumping off point for those coming down from the South Coast and going on to Guernsey, Jersey, or Brittany. It's also a favourite destination for French boats at the weekend coming from Cherbourg or other fairly local ports.
It's a little too far perhaps for a weekend trip from England, being a full day's sail from Poole or the Needles. It also lacks the 'big town' amenities of Cherbourg or Peter Port, and in addition, you are confined to a swinging mooring.
The island does have something of an old world charm, however, and is worth exploring - although you have to be fairly fit to make it up to the top! It is a place where to some extent you have be self sufficient, but that, in a sense, is one of its attractions. No big marinas, just a mooring buoy around which can swing in peace [providing you can find one in the first place, and providing the harbourmaster or water taxi isn't zooming past].
finding it
From the Needles:
Nice and straightforward, providing you make very careful allowance for the tides! The course to steer is around 200o. Do NOT end up downtide of Alderney, or you could be in for a long wait if you do. Normally you would leave the Solent on an ebbing tide and allow twelve hours for the crossing, which means you arrive on the ebb. This means aiming off towards Cap de la Hague, which, given a west or southwest wind allows you to sail a little freer. Similar arguments apply if leaving from Poole, although the passage time might be a little longer. Given the prevailing souwesterlies, it is often a beat all the way.
From Cherbourg:
Leave around 3 hours before high water Dover and head for Omonville. There is a counter current that will help you if you keep relatively close inshore. Beware of rough water near Basse Brefort bouy. Aim to arrive at Cap de la Hague at high water, and try not to get swept down the Race. It is always lumpy by Cap de la Hague.
In reasonable visibility you can see the island clearly as you come round the corner.
You can also make it in one tide from St Vaast if conditions are right. You need to leave as the lock opens, and keep inshore up to Barfleur to take advantage of the inshore eddy.
From Guernsey:
Leave Peter Port with the first of the northgoing tide and head up the Little Russell. Alderney should be come visible when you are a few miles away from Guernsey. The lighthouse on the Casquets can also be seen, providing visibility is reasonable.
You can come west side round the island through the Swinge, but time it carefully with the tide: you can run into rough water. It is more comfortable arriving at the top of the Race at High Water and turning west to aim for Braye. Don't cut corners round the island.
getting in
There are good leading lines by day and excellent leading lights by night - these seem to have improved as of 2005. See the photos below.
The leading lights are on a bearing of 215o. Set a waypoint on your GPS somewhere along the line well out from the harbour. You can check whether you are on the line by taking a back bearing on this - in other words, as you pass over the waypoint, its bearing should change to the reciprocal - that is, 035o.
hazards
If you are on the leading line you should be well clear of the submerged part of the breakwater - nine times out of ten you can get over it, but depths are not obvious and boats have come to grief on it. It is often noticeable by the overfalls over it. If coming from the west, head past until the harbour is well open. Preferably find the leading line before you turn in. Beware of strong tidal cross currents.
berthing
Mooring buoys only. As of 2004, they have been provided with decent ropes attached to them, so now you no longer need to provide your own line. £12 per night.
You can anchor, but you would need a long chain, and there are plenty of bits and pieces on the sea bed to foul your anchor. The best moorings are closest to the old harbour, but then you do suffer from the wash of the water taxi.
The harbour is uncomfortable verging on untenable in winds from north through east. If strong northeasterlies are forecast, head off out, or be prepared to roll heavily.
facilities
To get ashore you need a dinghy or use the water taxi (expensive if you have a large crew). It can be a long row.
Showers and loos are ashore; there is a fish and chip shop nearby; and also a reasonable grocer's shop for basics such as bread and milk, all close to the landing pontoon.
The town is a long walk up the hill.
You can get fuel and water from the inner harbour at high water. Be careful, since you tie to the wall, and the tide rises and falls very rapidly. Mainbrayce run quite a well stocked chandlery and are also marine engineers.
Alderney is not a place for great excitement. You are on a bouy in a large bay [see the pictures below], and, once ashore, there is little in the way of entertainment. The island does have a charm of its own, however, and even a walk along the breakwater gives you views across the Swinge and to the Channel shipping lanes.
charts and waypoints
Chart 2669: The Channel Isle and Adjacent Coast of France.
Chart 60: Alderney and the Casquets.
Waypoint: 49o47.3N 2o8.61W on leading line.
Google Earth
Quenard lighthouse
Slightly to the east of the leading line, about 1 mile from the harbour.
Taken before sunrise! The new leading lights show up clearly. The light on the end of the breakwater flashes every 10 seconds.
Views of the harbour from the moorings
Move your mouse over the numbers below to see the photograph in question
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |
All photographs copyright CNH/COH. Please ask if you wish to use them and please acknowledge the source.