A Personal Guide to the Baltic - Lithuania
Nicholas Hill
Klaipeda
Klaipeda is Lithuania's only Baltic port. It was heavily industrialised in the former Communist times. Despite this, some parts of the city are worth looking at.
One of the problems with sailing to Latvia or Lithuania from Poland is that the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad lies in the way. The closest port to Klaipeda, coming from the west, is probably Hel, which is over 100 miles away. This will mean an overnight passage, cutting across the moderately heavy shipping from Kaliningrad. Coming from the north, it is a relatively easy sail from Liepaja.
The harbour is easy to see from a long way - the coast either side is flat and featureless, and the buildings are visible for many miles.
There is a bouyed channel for commercial shipping, and as the water becomes shallow close in, it is a good idea to pick up one of the buoys a mile or so out, and follow the channel close to one side. It is about a mile from the entrance down the river to possible moorings. Incidentally, you may expect the current to be flowing out of the harbour. This is not always the case. The current depends on the wind direction, and run at 2-3 knots in either direction.
As, by definition, you will have come from a port outside the country [you are called up by VHF coming from the north, as you cross the border by Pape lighthouse], you will have to call at Immigration before berthing [see below!] There are two immigration quays: some of the pilot books and other guides send to you to berth number 42, which is hidden remarkably well. Berth 41 is easier, though more exposed to wash.
The Border Guards are perhaps a touch officious, and the forms to be filled in are more for commercial shipping than for yachts, but the process was relatively swift and painless.
Here I must make a confession. On my way back down the coast, I entered the harbour late afternoon, and having suffered the Immigration Quay before, decided to make straight for the yacht club. This was a mistake. Even before I had tied up, someone came pedalling round. 'You must go to Immigration. Now!' I had called in by VHF at Pape, and, apparently, been tracked all the way down and into the harbour! He was adamant. So, over I went. I was intercepted by a harbour launch and taken to the larger Immigration Quay. This was about 6 or 7 foot high, which very large black cylindrical fenders aranged diagonally. The only way of tying on was by rings on the wall. I managed to get bow and stern ropes through the same ring, then lost the bow line. The wind was blowing me off with some force. What next?
I realised that I could hang on by the stern, with the boat at right angles to the quay, and the bow pointing out. I got my papers, stretched up as high as I could, and managed to pass them up to the two Border Guards, who were watching all this quite impassively. They took my details, passed the papers back, and waved me away again.
berthing and facilities
There are two places to moor: the Old Castle Marina or the Yacht Club on the other side of the river at Smiltyne. Each has its drawbacks: the Old Castle Marina is fairly cramped, and the Yacht Club is on the wrong side of the river. A ferry will take you across [one of my more trying experiences was using the ferry for the first time. I had no Lithuanian money (Lats). I asked if I could go over to get some (finding someone who spoke English was another problem). The young man pointed to a sign which said: Bankomat 1800m. I walked the 1800m. No Bankomat. I walked the 1800m back again. This time, I was a little more forceful, and was allowed across without paying.].
I used the yacht club. It has two basins, and you can either go into box moorings or tie along a quayside. I chose the quayside. The moorings suffer somewhat from the wash of passing vessels in the river. The second basin was also used for training small children how to sail Optimists: Prospero proved to be a magnet for the dinghies.
The ablutions were reasonable and clean, if somewhat communal. The yacht club obviously functions as a hotel in the season. There is a café which serves adequate food.
Klaipeda seaport page for yachts. You can also navigate the site for other information.
Yachtng Union of Lithuania site: click on the Klaipeda link.
Google Earth
An excellent view: the river is shown clearly, as is the yacht club and Old Castle Marina.
Welcome to Klaipeda!
The Old Castle Marina is down at the end of this channel. One of the Immigration Quays on the right - where I hung on to pass up my papers.
The other immigration quay:
Move your mouse over each of the numbers in turn -
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Not exactly obvious - and it's a cul de sac.
Yacht Club
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All photographs copyright CNH/COH. Please ask if you wish to use them and please acknowledge the source.