A Personal Guide to The Baltic - LATVIA
Nicholas Hill
Pavilosta
This was once a major fishing port, judging by the derelict fish factory on the south side of the river. It is also a holiday resort, but a lot less 'trippery' than its Polish neighbours. The town itself is small and sleepy, although there is a reasonable grocery. In many ways, it is a welcome change from the large commercial harbours which dominate the coast along here.
Coming north from Liepaja, the harbour lies a little beyond the headland and large lighthouse at Akmersrags. Coming south from Ventspils, the harbour is about 20 miles sailing. It is easily recognised by the aerials and watchtowers.
The entrance is through the usual breakwaters which run straight into the harbour. It must be very exposed in onshore winds above about F5.
berthing and facilities
Before entering, I radioed the harbour to say I was coming in. In retrospect, this was perhaps a mistake. I received a reply from 'Pavilosta Marina', telling me to come in and tie up on the starboard side of the river. Starboard side? All the pilot books have the quay on the other side. But in I went, and there was a gentleman waving at me. Sure enough, the quay was on the other side, but now there was a new, long staging opposite. This was to be the new Pavilosta marina.
As with many othe projects in this part of the world, the money is coming from the EU. The marina, when finished, will be built to full European standards: pontoons with water and electricity, showers, loos, internet access, washing machine. An hotel and bar. It looked if it would be a considerable improvement on my berth back in England.
Yet I had reservations. It is on the wrong side of the river for the town [the gentleman currently in charge ferried me across in a RIB]. The entrance is wide open to the sea, and a good onshore gale would set up horrendous swell. A wave break is planned, but I'm not sure how effective it would be.
And most important, how viable would it be? There were some Hobie Cats which you could hire, and they were being used when I was there. The harbour does get visiting yachts from Sweden and Germany [and even Britain!], but I imagine that many of them would still want to use the old quay. There may be Latvians who sail in Riga Bay, but I don' think the country has yet developed the well off middle class who will buy a cruising yacht. And where is there to cruise from, say for a weekend? Added to this, the season is relatively short. On the South coast of England, I can sail most of the year round. In Latvia, the temperature soon becomes sub zero in the winter.
I don't want to be a spoilsport - the gentleman in charge said, 'This is our future', but I'm not sure whether Pavilosta is ready for this sort of investment just yet.
In any case, here is their website: Pavilosta marina.
But the harbour is a beautiful spot.
Google Earth
Unfortunately, the resolution here is very poor.
Looking into the harbour entrance. The usual watchtower is on the right, in front of the derelict fish factory. There are leading marks - you can see I am just to starboard of them. You can also just see the staging for the new marina.
Another view of the entrance.
A view looking out to sea. New marina with Prospero on left.
A panorama of the harbour. Move your mouse over the relevant number below:
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All photographs copyright CNH/COH. Please ask if you wish to use them and please acknowledge the source.