The Baltic States were, until 1991, part of the now defunct USSR, and as such, were closed to Western yachtsmen. After independence, yachting facilities were almost non existent, but gradually things have improved. The number of local yachtsmen is small, but steadily increasing. This has had the effect of helping to improve the facilities, but means that there is less room in harbours than in the past.

The season is also much shorter: mid May is considered to be early in the season, and it is effectively over by the end of August.

Each of the three Baltic states has its own currency, but euros are widely accepted – indeed, preferred in some harbours. Obtaining local currency is now much easier, though, with the expansion of the banking system and ‘hole in the wall’ machines.

Mooring is often by stern buoy, although many new developments are fitting pontoons, which makes life easier. Alongside wooden staging or sometimes concrete walls are also common.

Obtaining supplies is also easier, with the opening of new supermarkets. Unfortunately, these are often out of town, but shopping is not usually a problem.

Each country has its own unique language, but most harbour masters speak a little English. In Estonia, English is quite widespread (signposts in some towns often have an English subtitle).

This site derives from my own personal experiences, and I cannot claim to be an authority after a few brief visits. However, I hope it will be helpful for yachtsmen visiting this part of the world. Simply click on the navigation bar at the top to read about the various harbours.

The German NV.Sportschiffahrtskarten have now put their harbour charts on the internet, and you can save them onto your computer. The Serie 6 chart pack includes Lithuania and Latvia, but only Ruhnu in Estonia. Their website for the area is here.

Klaipeda

Klaipeda is Lithuania's only Baltic port. It was very badly damaged in 1945, then heavily industrialised in the former Communist times. Despite this, some parts of the city are worth looking at.

One of the problems with sailing to Latvia or Lithuania from Poland is that the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad lies in the way. The closest ports to Klaipeda, coming from the west, are either Hel or Wladyslawowo, which are over 100 miles away. This will mean an overnight passage, cutting across the moderately heavy shipping from Kaliningrad. Coming from the north, it is a relatively easy sail from Klaipeda.

The harbour is easy to see from a long way - the coast either side is flat and featureless, and the buildings are visible for many miles.

There is a buoyed channel for commercial shipping, and as the water becomes shallow close in, it is a good idea to pick up one of the buoys a mile or so out, and follow the channel close to one side. It is about a mile from the entrance down the river to possible moorings. Incidentally, you may expect the current to be flowing out of the harbour. This is not always the case. The current depends on the wind direction, and can run at 2-3 knots in either direction.

Nowadays, Lithuania has signed up to the Schengen agreement, which makes calling the immigration berth a thing of the past (though strictly speaking, the UK has not signed up to the agreement). Despite that, if you are coming from the north, you will be called by Klaipeda Traffic on VHF Channel 16, and asked who you are. Similarly, if you have called Klaipeda Traffic on Channel 09 before entry (this is a good idea, as Klaipeda is a busy commercial port, and there is not a lot of room at the entrance), then you may get a call from Border Control asking you go to Channel 83, and they will ask you a few questions.

Klaipeda harbour chart on nv-pedia.

berthing and facilities

There are two places to moor: the Old Castle Marina on the city side, or the Yacht Club on the other side of the river at Smiltyne.

Smiltyne

This is very easy to access, being built on the side of the main channel. As a result, it can be subject to some wash from passing ships. There is a main basin with a quayside by the yacht club building (which also functions as an hotel) with box moorings opposite. To port is another basin, which is probably a better bet for visitors. Here the choice is between box moorings (plenty of room in them) or the inner wall of the concrete quay. The concrete is rough and crumbly. You need to be well fendered. Hoops are provided for your lines. Water and electricity is now available on all the moorings, including the wall. (See below for photos of Smiltyne)

The ablutions were reasonable and clean, if somewhat communal. There is a café and bar which serves adequate food.

The Old Castle Marina

This is currently (summer 2009) undergoing considerable redevelopment, and I would be interested to hear from anyone who has updates of the work.

Approaches: the marina is about 200 metres down the River Dane. You have to proceed with caution, as the channel is fairly narrow, and is also used by the ferries to Smiltyne. You can tie up along the sides here (see photos), and there are posts with electrical sockets, but the wash of the ferry would make these moorings very uncomfortable. Access to the marina was limited by a footbridge across the entrance; currently (June 2009) the footbridge has been taken away. If it is replaced, then you will have to tie up temporarily in the river.

The marina is situated in the moat of the old castle - it stretches for some way either side of the entrance, but is rather narrow. The stern buoys have all been replaced with finger pontoons, and dredging has been carried out. NB! If the footbridge is not there, then turn right on entry and find a berth along that side. If you turn left, and tie up in that part of the marina, then you will be faced with a walk of at least 500metres to get to the ablutions!

The ablutions themselves (key obtained from the small hut where the harbourmaster sits) are adequate, but not much more.

There are also moorings in the old immigration basin, but the basin is quite cramped, and all the moorings suitable for boats of any size are stern buoys. It is also full of local boats. Given the size of the Old Castle marina, it shouldn't be a problem finding a berth, and so I would not recommend the new basin, although you could motor in cautiously to have a look at it.

The town

The old city was flattened in 1945. It has been rebuilt, but not much is left of the original. The street plan is still the same, and the cobbles in the road are probably pre-war. There is quite a good exhibition in what is left of the old castle.

Other links:

Klaipeda seaport page for yachts, which is somewhat out of date now. You can also navigate the site for other information.

Yachting Union of Lithuania site: click on the Klaipeda link.

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Smyltine yacht club on the starboard side of the canal.

The inner basin at Smyltines, with the boox moorings to starboard, and a long length of wall to port. The wall now has water and electricity supplied.

Left - approach to the Old Castle marina. This channel is on the port hand side of the river. Beware the ferries, which dock by the bridge in the distance. You can just make out the entrance to the marina on the starboard side, but beware: it's a sharp turn into a narrow opening. Right - the Old castle marina. Ablutions are at the back of the big red building centre left.

A view up the main street from the market square.

Liepaja

Liepaja is the only town for a long way on this section of coast, which is otherwise lowlying, with sandy beaches and trees growing almost to the shoreline. As a result, it is conspicuous by its cranes and high rise buildings.

You should call VTS or Port Control before entering - they may ask you to wait if there is traffic inbound or outbound. Both can be contacted on Channel 11 - Port Control uses the callsign 'Liepaja 5', and VTS uses 'Liepaja radio 1'.

The pilot books are very cagey about the entrance. There is a big outer breakwater with three entrances, but the northern one should not be used due to obstructions. On my second visit, I radioed in on and was told to use the 'southern gate'. Whichever of the channels you use, the initial approach along the buoyed channel is the same. The channel to the southern entrance branches off close to the harbour - marked with a red/green buoy. New leading lights for both channels have been installed, which are clearly visible in daylight, making the approach a good deal easier.

In strong onshore winds the entrances may be difficult, with relatively shallow water and reflections from the breakwaters. Things calm down a lot once inside, although a substantial swell can still roll in from the entrances.

Once inside, there is a buoyed channel within the outer harbour, which leads you down to the Tirdzniecibas Kanal. The turn into the channel is marked by a very large stack of gravel and cut wood on the port side, but it is all fairly obvious. The channel runs for about a mile to the town bridge, and is filled with derelict trawlers, cargo vessels, minesweepers and the like. It is far busier than the outer harbour might suggest.

The inner harbour has shallow patches too, particularly near the southern end. Judging by the colour of the water, large areas may be less than a metre in depth. The topworks of what look like a sunken trawler can also be seen there. On the other hand, quite large ships use the channel, so there can't be any real problem if you're careful. The channel to the Kanal is quite well buoyed, and there are another set of leading lights to help. But make sure you do keep to the channel as marked!

The yacht moorings are about a mile further down the canal. The canal is quite wide and almost straight. You will find a variety of moored boats on both sides. It would be difficult to miss the quayside, since it is just before the road bridge which stops you going any further.

Liepaja harbour chart on nv-pedia.

berthing and facilities

You tie onto wooden staging (see photos) which have large bollards. There is electricity (some of the boxes look a little dodgy) with both marina fittings and standard Continental domestic sockets. Water is also available, with taps all the way against the wall. The only means of getting fuel is by cans from a petrol station around 200 metres away. The quayside will be well protected in almost any weather conditions.

There is a new 'yacht centre' which is part of the hotel (see photos). The harbour master (who speaks good English) has an office here. He may ask to see your passport, although strictly speaking this isn't really necessary. There is a washing machine and dryer. The ablutions are not marked male/female; instead there are two rooms each containing a loo and shower. These are new and better than most in the area. The hotel has free Wifi - you may get a signal in the boat, but if not, you can take your laptop into the art gallery within the hotel. There is a cash machine (Swedbank) just the other side of the hotel.

The town

Only around 200 metres from the quayside is a Rimi supermarket. This is one of the best supermarkets I have find in the Baltic, and not only does it have a wide range of fresh food, but also clothes, kitchen equipment, and all the rest of it. It is an excellent place to stock up on supplies.

The town is quite attractive - it is a complete mixture, from relatively hi-tech modern buildings to run down wooden houses a few streets away. You can easily spend a few days wandering around - there is a lot to be seen not only in the centre, but in the sidestreets too.

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Left: the outer breakwater - and you see that there is still some swell rolling in. Right: view down the canal towards the bridge and yacht quay (still some way away)

Left: the yacht quay with the hotel plus yacht centre behind. Right: the quayside with the bridge behind.

Liepaja - a town of contrasts.

Pavilosta

This was once a major fishing port, judging by the derelict fish factory on the south side of the river. It is also a holiday resort, but a lot less 'trippery' than its Polish neighbours. The town itself is small and sleepy, although there is a reasonable grocery. In many ways, it is a welcome change from the large commercial harbours which dominate the coast along here.

Coming north from Liepaja, the harbour lies a little beyond the headland and large lighthouse at Akmersrags. Coming south from Ventspils, the harbour is about 20 miles sailing. It is easily recognised by the aerials and watchtowers. A new large, prominent radio/radar mast has been constructed recently, dwarfing the old Communist-era watchtower (see right).

The entrance is through the usual breakwaters which run straight into the harbour. It must be very exposed in onshore winds above about F5.

Pavilosta harbour chart on nv-pedia.

berthing and facilities

There are two places in which to moor: there is a wooden quay to port, or, on the opposite side is the new Pavilosta marina. Both have their pros and cons.

The marina gives you rather more shelter from a strong westerly as it is tucked away to one side, and from that point of view is probably the better bet in an onshore breeze above about F3. It also has the electrical supply via a marina type socket rather than the standard domestic type. There is a washing machine and drier in the somewhat portakabin type marina office, and ablutions which are adequate. Mooring is by hoops rather than cleats.

The wooden quay doesn't have any of these facilities, but it does have one major advantage - it is on the right side of the river for the town!

The town itself is a pleasant and peaceful place, but not very big. There is one main street, which runs up from the harbour to a cross roads where there is a bus stop, and just down to the side, a small grocer's shop which stocks essentials, if not luxuries. To get to the town you either row across in a dinghy, or take a rather long walk round the derelict factory (the one eyesore in the town) and across the bridge. Rowing up to the bridge might be an easier option!

The other great asset to Pavilosta is a fuelling station another 200 metres or so down the river. This is the last chance to get fuel (other than carrying cans back from a petrol station) if you are heading south: Gdynia or Gdansk will be the next opportunity. Going north, you may possibly get fuel in Ventspils, but your next fuelling stops will either be Roomessaare/Kuressare in Saaremaa, or Riga.

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The usual Baltic breakwaters, which are becoming rather weatherbeaten. There are, apparently, proposals to renovate them, but they may well be on hold in the current climate. (NB - this picture was taken in 2006, before the new radio mast (see above) was built.)

Somewhat battered breakwaters ...

On the left in the wooden quay to port; on the right is the wooden staging at the new marina.

Ventspils

Ventspils is at the top of the western coast of Latvia. It is a large commercial and fishing port. The harbour itself is quite heavily industrialised, and new installations rub shoulders with some very crumbly communist concrete.

The entrance is quite straightforward, although it is wise to call Ventspils VTS on Channel 9 - call-signal “Ventspils Vessel Traffic”, phone number: (+371) 36 210 40. They may ask you to wait if there is something large on the way out or in the approach channel.

Once in, you keep to starboard side of the harbour and head for the river entrance, then you turn into a large fishing harbour, and keep going round (you will see masts), until you see the yacht club.

Ventspils harbour chart on nv-pedia.

berthing and facilities

This is the usual Baltic stern buoy arrangement, with bollards on the high wooden staging (see photos below). Warning - the buoys are set some way out, and a long mooring line is advisable. You could try going alongside one of the adjacent quays, but you may be moved on, as some of them are reserved. Another caution: these are made of very crumbly concrete, and you should be well fendered.

The facilities were adequate and reasonably clean. The yacht club has deteriorated considerably over the past few years, and needs a considerable amount of maintenance. Electricity (providing it is switched on!) is via the continental round pin plugs. Water is available if you have a long hose. Free WiFi is available - there is no password ... just switch on your laptop and connect! There was a café on the lawn in front of the yacht club, but in 2009 this had closed.

It is quite a long walk into town, but fortunately there is a small supermarket just outside the dock gates, which sells the necessities. A much better suppermarket with cash machine is about a kilometre's walk

There is a fish processing plant about 100m from the yacht berths. When in operation - which is quite often - and the wind is in the wrong direction, there is a very distinct smell!

There is also a fuelling point - it is not really intended for yachts, but you may be able to get diesel there if you ask (you may have language difficulties!). The quayside has large black rubber fenders, which resemble the eraser found at the end of a pencil - except about a metre across. Not the easiest to tie up to.

 

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Left hand picture: The yacht club and Prospero. This photo dates from 2006 and neither the yacht club nor Prospero are quite as smart as they were! The mooring bollards on the quay can be clearly seen. On the right is the fish processing plant with attendant fishing boat.

Harbour view. The mooring buoys can be seen in the foreground.

Kuressaare

The harbour of Kuressaare should not be confused with the new marina at Kuressaare, which is only a few miles away. Both are on the island of Saaremaa, which is about 50 miles end to end, and forms the northern part of Riga Bay.

Coming up from the south, it is about 64 miles from Ventspiles in Latvia, a fairly straightforward day's sail, particularly given the length of day in the summer in these high latitudes (Kuressaare is about 58°20' North) Coming from Sweden, you are in for quite a long journey - maybe 200 miles. You can stop off at Montu, which is about 20 miles short of Kuressaare, but there is just a long quay for ferries there, with a few spaces for yachts, and is really in the middle of nowhere (see here for picture and chart (use the drop down menu to find Montu)). The other snag is that there is no way of getting Estonian kroons there, although the harbour master may accept euros.

The approach to the fairway buoy is relatively straightforward - the island of Abruka will be about a mile away on your starboard side. This is where it becomes interesting!

Approach channel. Photo on right: the fairway buoy can be seen on the far right. Caution - the picture was taken with a telephoto lens, so the perspective has been foreshortened. On left: Channel looking outwards. The island of Abruka can be seen in the distance, just to the left of the channel buoys. The banks created from the dumping of the spoil from the dredging can also be seen quite clearly.

At some time in the past, the harbour became completely silted up. However (and no doubt with plenty of EU money), a 2½ mile channel has been dredged out. At some points this is quite narrow - perhaps 30m or so - but is arrow straight and very well buoyed. Minimum depth is just over 2m - I had no problem at 1.8m. The spoil from the dredging has been dumped either side to form banks either side of the channel, which would help in rough weather. (A chart of the channel can be downloaded here.) At the end, there is a slight dogleg round the breakwater where you will find three pontoons with stern buoys (the third pontoon is recent - many charts and pilot books will only show two).

Once round the corner, you see three pontoons with stern buoys on your port side. (On the opposite side of the harbour there is some new wooden staging, complete with electrical points, but you'd have to walk about a kilometre to get to the facilities from there!) There are a few local boats, but not many: the locals tned to keep their yachts at Rumessaare, which is only a few miles away.

Right: the yacht club - the harbour master can be found in the light blue building on the far left of the picture ('sadam' is Estonian for port or harbour). He speaks very reasonable English. Flags of the countries of the visiting boats are flown, as is usual in this part of the world.)
Left: view from the shore, with castle and palace in the background. You can also make out the wooden staging on the opposite side of harbour, although you'd only want to tie up here if the pontoons were very crowded indeed. I suspect it is for much larger boats such as sail training ships.

The harbour itself has been landscaped very effectively, and there are no other moorings apart from those at the yacht club, so you have the place to yourself, with no fishing boats or commercial traffic. As you can see, the background is Kuressaare castle and the bishop's palace, making a stunning vista.

Left: view from the opposite direction. The wooden staging is in the foreground.This was taken very early in the season (mid May!). It would be a lot more crowded June-August.
Right: the view out to sea, taken from the castle. You can see the spoil dumps around the approach channel stretching out to the horizon.

The harbour has an excellent website, (available in Estonian, English, Finnish, Swedish and German!). As well as charts (in pdf form) of the harbour and the approaches, there is an excellent photo gallery, price list, webcam and links to other sites.

The castle

This is such an extraordinary building, it is difficult to do it justice. The main castle was built in the form of a square, with forts at each corner, and a moat which looks more like a river!

Right: the bishop's quarters. Fine with central heating, but I wouldn't like to have lived there in an Estonian winter!

Inside the castle grounds is the bishop's palace, built in the late fourteenth century. There is an excellent museum, and you can even go onto the roof.

(Museum website in English, giving a full description of the castle and its history.)

The town

There is a cash machine quite close to the yacht club [despite what it says in the harbour guide], and a small grocers. The town is about a kilometre walk, and there is a small arcade with quite a good supermarket. The town itself is quite pleasant, though not that big. It is worth talking a walk round the outskirts, to get a feel for the more traditional Estonian way of life. There is obviously still quite a lot of restoration going on following the Communist era, and the inevitable Soviet style apartment block, but overall, the town has survived the twentieth century quite well. I think the statue is in remembrance of the first war of independence, 1918-1920 (at least, those are the dates on the plinth!)

Left: the street leading from the harbour to the town centre. Right: Typical Estonian houses.

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